Through Veiled Eyes
On a platform full of a hundred people blending into one, she stood apart. In absolute simplicity, she was different. A different typically causing unease or discomfort in the “free”, she was draped from head to toe in fine black cloth only revealing her dark eyes set in dark skin. Nearby, a small blur of teal bounced and bobbed, occasionally pressing itself against the black cloth giving shape to the shapeless.The small teal frock turned to show an uncovered face- joyful eyes and a genuine smile with both corners pushing up pinchable cheeks.
A man accompanied the fully covered woman and the mostly covered child. He was a small man, seemingly too old for a child of such young age, but playing the part of the father nonetheless. A thin beard of great length covered the sharp of his chin, but not the line of his jaw and the standard white Muslim hat rest upon his head. He stood at the beginning of a long queue of anxious work-weary people waiting for the traffic jam-defying sky train.
The woman spoke in a language, not Thai, maybe Malayu, to her husband and he listened the way respectful husbands do. He nodded to his wife in thoughtful agreement to whatever she said, as the young child in teal held his leg and swung herself in play. The train came and the man gathered the child and their bags and escorted his wife through the open train door before himself.
The Thai family more foreign amongst the Buddhist crowd of their own country than the white-skinned, much taller, non-citizen foreigner that I am. The stream of anxious waiters standing in the platform’s queue filed in the space between a foreign family sitting one one side of the car of the train and a foreign me seated on the other. I went unnoticed, but the family did not.
Beyond the overflow of standers, I could no longer see the young child. The only glimpse of the family I had was the two black eyes encased in black cloth. I looked away, trying to find something more interesting, more captivating than the very thing I wanted to look, yet my curiosity brought my own stare back to one that had never left me.
I looked away quickly, but then looked back again. Still, the eyes peered at me.
There are times I have felt the glare of jealousy- perceived or real I am not sure- in the stares of eyes of the same ilk. Jealous of the white girl’s “freedom” to be unveiled, despised for western “liberty” to be a woman and be recognized. Were the emotions real or was it just what I assume women in veils are thinking?
I could not see more than her eyes holding a steady gaze upon me, yet I knew that underneath the cloth of perceived oppression, she was smiling. At me. No jealousy. No longing to be set free from the veil that is all most people see. No quiet desperation crying out for a voice. No. Nothing of the kind.
Crowds of people all easier to “see”, yet the only person I truly saw was the one most see as only a cloth.
She pulled her child from off the lap of the husband who was out of my sight and through dangling arms of tired people waiting to go home, she pointed the child’s face in my direction. The child smiled. The woman smiled. And so did I.
The train stopped. People scurried off and new people scurried on. The woman, the child and I continued our wordless acquaintance ignoring the surrounding motion, unaware of the presence of others, enjoying, not fearing, the differences of our worlds.
I’m not sure why this five minutes had such a profound effect on me, but it did. If a moment can make you feel at one with all of humanity, this one did just that. I think I am turning into a sentimental dork because I really felt it was beautiful.
Do Christian-influenced westerners have any right to deem the veil itself as “bad”? If it is a free choice, can it be a free choice to wear it? The woman I shared a sky train ride with exuberated confidence and a certainty of her own identity in a way that far exceeds many of my unveiled western friends. She showed no signs of veil-induced despair. If a woman chooses the veil, who are we as outsiders to condemn it? Do we demonize the presence of the cloth or the absence of choice?
"It's all about choice" -Humera Khan
PS….going to Laos soon… and then Ne-ne-nepal :)

















